Over 7 days, 100+ shows and presentations I’ve picked up on the key highlights from those brands we know and love – Welcome to your New York Fashion Week round up. (Image: Prabal Gurung)
JENNY PACKHAM: New York Fashion Week’s The Gallery at Skylight Clarkson Square played home to the latest collection from Jenny Packham. The collection started off discovering one of Packham’s muses, Nick Cave who’s masculine looked loomed into sharp contrasts to the feminine quality Packham found in his music. Overall the collection was noted with plenty of Feminine and Masculine traits with a floral juxtaposition making part of the collection sharply chic giving a nod to the English garden. ‘As I am doing the collection, I am thinking very much about the customers I have all over the world, not just royalty’ the designer said backstage on Sunday.
PRABAL GURUNG: opened his runway show with thirty Buddhist monks who had traveled to New York to chant a prayer of gratitude for the world’s help during the devastating earthquake that killed thousands in Gurung‘s native Nepal in April. “When the earthquake happened, the first people that came to our rescue in Nepal was the fashion industry here, and I wanted to show some kind of gratitude to them,” Gurung said after the Sunday show. “I go and visit the monastery (in Nepal) all the time, and I had this idea, and they wanted to do it.” The entire runway show was dedicated to Nepal, with garments in shades of lemon, saffron, peach, tea rose and other variations of orange and yellow. There was barely a dark color in the mix. Especially effective were lovely white dresses embroidered in orange and yellow, and filmy chiffon evening gowns that floated down the runway. There was also some fringe and sparkle in the mix.
DIANE VON FURSENBERG: With a collection that “celebrated truth, nature and freedom” and a model line-up that included the biggest names in the business, DVF’s SS16 offering was quite the fun, flirtatious affair. Symmetrical handkerchief prints in saccharine sweet tones were the stand-out – a trend that will undoubtedly influence the masses next summer. Relaxed chiffon numbers were in abundance, to satisfy even the most feminine of dressers, from a white embroidered shirt-dress to a layered, wrap-around maxi-dress that had a subtle Grecian feel. For those looking to paint the town red as the temperature soars, chiffon was also used on a hot fuchsia kaftan and a vivid golden yellow one-shouldered dress. Fringing was a reoccurring theme, seen in candy colours and decorating oversized pockets on city shorts, safari jackets and a boxy tote bag. (words: Olivia Palermo)
VICTORIA BECKHAM: The whole of New York Fashion Week descended on 25 Broadway in Lower Manhattan‘s Financial District that played show space to Victoria Beckham‘s latest Spring Summer 2016 collection. The 35 piece range consisted of bold navy, red and white colour block patterns with a series of floaty full-length dresses making up most of the collection, in addition to the collection, Beckham introduced new half moon bag shapes which will play key to her accessories range.. The soft and minimal shapes showed a marked difference to her body-con dresses of yesteryear and high heeled pumps have been replaced by backless loafers. Indicative of a fashion shift.
REBECCA MINKOFF: Previewing her latest Spring 2016 collection on Saturday 12th, Rebecca Minkoff has also always been clear about her muses, which tend to be Sixties and Seventies “It” girls. This season she looked to Marianne Faithfull, “a symbol of the youth quake and the rebellion.” As she observed, “there is a parallel between her and my customer now who embraces the future.” The 32 piece collection which was undoubtedly the most tech-savvy show this season on the New York Runway so far captured by latest brand partner, Intel, used drones to capture aerial shots from the runway. It goes without say, the collection is fit for the rock chick within and with Minkoff nodding backstage to that duality with her colour story, opening the collection with a parade of virginal ivory, cream, and bone, which soon gave way to plenty of black.
ALTUZARRA: Basque culture inspired the collection from French-born designer Joseph Altuzarra, whose father’s family comes from the region. He got the idea from an exhibition by photographer Charles Freger that featured pagan costumes worn in Europe at festival time. The Altuzarra Spring collection wasn’t that kind of major-statement fashion. Rather, it was a relaxed distillation of an increasingly defined aesthetic — sensual sophistication with a latent dash of the perverse. Here, it looked ultra approachable, and beautifully so. The tempering was not accidental, as Altuzarra sought a break from megafashion. “I’m not a woman, but I think this is what you want to wear during the summer. You want to wear very, very little,” he said during a preview.