For Autumn Winter 2017, Teatum Jones have looked at the story of our relationship with the human body. Looking at the work of artist Hans Bellmer, they stepped inside his ‘doll project’, which he created to oppose the fascism of the Nazi Party. Bellmer, defiantly stood against the ideals of the new German state by composing mutated doll forms and unconventional poses that were a direct rejection of the cult of the seemingly perfect body, then prominent in Germany.
Teatum Jones’ objective is to explore and breakdown the idea of “us and them, them and us”… They have looked at the body objectively and deconstructed it without prejudice. They have championed the idea that something you traditionally and socially accept as ‘whole’ and seemingly ‘perfect’ can be deconstructed in unconventional ways and considered just as beautiful.
Catherine (Teatum) and Rob (Jones) have explored the brands key signature shapes such as their statement oversized coats and column dresses while taking the seams apart and reconstructing them using contrasting sheer layers with eyeleted seams and strapped waistlines with extra long tapes. The results are bell sleeves that mask the models hands, oversized collars that exaggerate the neckline and optional hemlines that almost want to escape from within a garment. Many of the garments appear to simultaneously have two layers of skin.
Taking inspiration from the brands latest spring summer 2017 collection’s colour pallete; they have shared their tones into three groups; the first a dark, somber group of wet, shiny midnight navy, innocent ivory and finishing’s in chrome silver and black tapes. The second colour group pays homage to memories of a traditionally rich and warming autumn with hues of ripe burgundy, opulent mustard and indulgent salmon pink with soft cornflower blues. Teatum Jones end their story on a powerfully stark colour palette of black and white, with accents of post box red, smokey pvc and grey melange.
Images from Vogue.